THE WORST DIRECTIONS ANYONE COULD EVER GIVE ME WHEN I AM LOOKING FOR A PLACE IN TOWN.
There are mosques on every corner here. I'm really not exaggerating. For the second time since I've lived here someone today told me, "right next to the mosque". Next time I hear that I just know I won't be able to help laughing.
I've been spending a lot (I mean a lot, probably too much) time thinking about how I am living in a Muslim society now. Every day I am submersed in Muslim culture in small and not so small ways. That's something I accepted before moving here but now that it's part of my life I must say I am finding myself kind of aggravated by it. I don't know if it's an aggravation that's good for me, to force me to become more adaptable even than I thought I was before- or an aggravation that is resulting in me feeling loads of spite toward people who live in very specific ways that differ from how I live.
Every morning I've been waking up at 4 a.m. because of the call to prayer. It comes on over a loudspeaker and it's always a male voice sort of sing-chanting something in Arabic. What it is saying I don't know. It sounds really soothing and welcoming. At first, in the mornings I would only half wake up from it and then fall back asleep, but for some reason lately I have been waking up fully and thinking about how I should handle living in a Muslim place.
Small observations... When I walk Jack there are always two specific reactions from people who pass me walking the other direction. One reaction is the laid back Mombasa friendliness and a smile with major amusement, the other is a look of panic that Jack is A: there B: close enough that his tail or some part of his body might actually touch them, which from the look on there face would be basically a really, really, really bad thing. I can't get over the contrast in these reactions. I think maybe I am not as open-minded and accepting as I have been giving myself credit for for years. In my head I think really nasty thoughts toward the people who have the second reaction. I surprise myself by how defensive I instantly feel. "I live here too! It's my right to own whatever animal I choose! I'm wise enough to not let my filthy animal touch you!" Then I feel ashamed for feeling that way. I am in their home.
I've been asking the few friends I have here about trying to understand Muslim beliefs and maybe I am just not asking the right people. When I ask about certain customs, the answer is often "because it's not clean" whether this refers to dogs, the human body, a woman's period etc. etc. etc. I understand that they believe that, but I don't understand why. One friend said she would loan me some books to help me understand and she did. But they are written for a child audience (maybe good for me huh?) and seem to only give directions for how to practice customs instead of explaining the meaning or origin of them. So frustrating.
I also find it really a pain to get dressed here. First of all it is so humid and warm that I can shower and literally 5 minutes later I have a slimy film of sweat covering my face and neck (TMI? sorry!). Then I proceed to put on clothes that cover my shoulders and knees. Obviously NOT practical for this weather but I'm the last person who wants to be looked at as indecent or disrespectful so, I sweat about 5 times more than I need to in order to not offend a lot of people I don't know. Is it just me, or is that kind of weird?
At 30 am I really becoming so begrudging toward things outside my own personal mindset? What will I be like as an old lady (if I make it there)? Wooow. Scary to think about.
I'm also struggling about whether I can keep Jack or not. Half the time I'm convinced I need to be with him until he becomes old and dies and the other half of the time he feels like a luxury I can't afford right now in so many ways.
BLAH. I need some inspiration and positive influence in my life right now. I've even been practicing yoga most every morning for the first time in months and that doesn't seem to be doing the trick. Maybe this is a sign that I won't be able to live here for much longer. Or, ask me again in 2 days and I'll probably tell you something different.
4 comments:
Hey Kate
Is the Muslin religion predominantly in Mombassa? I didnt hear you voice comments about it in Thika. The problem with being a minority anywhere is challenging,esp.in a 3rd world country. 1.you are white. 2.you have a dog 3.you are a non muslim 4.you are in Africa.
The reality is, you dont fit in, you stand out because of these differences.
Even if you changed your religion and didnt have Jack, you would still be obvious. It is a fact of life. There will always be people that are envious and resentful. America is still not totally tolerant, and they have been a work in progress for years. I do think it is appropriate to respect local customs, but not everyone knows that you are doing that, and you will always find people with a negative mentality who are looking for a reason to dislike someone different than themselves. Be cautious...unfortunately it is not a perfect world.
Thanks for your honesty and open mindedness. Hugs, Momma
Hey Ursula,
Yeah about 99.99999% of people in Thika were some variety of Christians. Talk about culture shock. I really value and appreciate all of your points. It's especially good for me to remember that I will always stand out. It's pretty silly, but I thought maybe if I stayed in Africa long enough I would blend in. Really hilarious actually how delusional that is! Reminds me of how before moving to Kenya, I had Lisa die my hair "dark chocolate" brown because I thought maybe I'd get a few less stares if I wasn't blond. That experiment totally failed although the color change was kind of fun while it lasted.
It's also really good for me to remember to quit wasting energy of guessing about what people are thinking of me. Who cares (as long as I'm respectful) right?!?!
Thanks Mom. Missing you.
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